have you ever wanted to learn how to do a graphghan? well today, this is a comprehensive video of doing graphghans using this pillow. welcome back to the crochet crowd as well as yarnspirations.com, i'm your host mikey. today we are gonna work on this pillow. this is called the catch a wave crochet pillow. but this is a complete graphghan tutorial on using this pillow as an example on how to do graphghans. so this is a graphghan tutorial. it's gonna be a comprehensive and probably lengthy and i'm gonna divide it into many different chapters within this one video so you don't have to keep clicking around. and in today's video. things are gonna be divided into steps. and ultimately you'll be able to do one of these in the end.
so we're going to review some steps that we're going to do from one to seven and let's cover what we're going to be learning in today's tutorial. step number one is to review the picture and the graph. step number two, yarn and supplies. step number three is how to read the graph. step number four is breaking down the graph for the bobbins. step number five is to review the color changing techniques that you should do. step number six is when you're noticing an error in your pattern how can you adjust. and then final
step number seven we're doing the final touches and dealing with the loose ends. so let's begin and step right back on step number one a of reviewing the picture and the graph. so in step number one we're going to look at the photograph and the graph that's been provided. this is a free pattern available on yarnspirations.com called to catch a wave crochet pillow. now what you're gonna look at is that you're gonna look at the lines. and regardless if it's this pattern or any other pattern that you're finding on line you wanna really want to look at the lines are being used.
so you can see that there's steel blue, there's cream, aqua and then cream and then steel blue and then there's cream again. so you're looking at the lines of your work. sometimes some of these graphghans the lines are so thin that if you were to try to do it. it wouldn't actually work out really well. so for example, the way the designer has it, this cream line actually is well defined. so you wanna look for that in this kind of pattern. you'll also wanna look at how many colors that the designer has used. so in this case there's only three different colors. so you're not looking that this is gonna be too complex.
now the nice thing about this particular pattern is that the designer has also provided it is a graph format. so you're going to be able to find the boxes and each one of these boxes equals ten. okay, so there are ten stitches across and ten rows up. so you kinda get a good idea when you're looking at something like this is that there's fifty-seven maybe fifty-eight uh rows in the height here and we have, we can to ten, twenty, thirty, forty, fifty and there's four there's fifty-four
boxes in the bottom and there's darker lines here so that indicates groups of ten. so that makes it a lot easier. so in this particular design the way the designer has presented it, it's actually a lot, uh, it's actually pretty easy to be able to follow along. so what you're looking for here is that you can see that the cream is here. you can see that it's defined by two boxes side by side and that's what's giving it the nice look on the actual pillow itself is that if this was just diagonal and there was one here, one, one and not and not doubling up it would not be a very good defined line.
so we're looking for things like that when it comes to doing the picture. so you have to review the in the graph and make sure the lines are not too complex, you're checking for the colors and make sure it's something that you think you wanna do. [music playing] in step number two we're going to review the yarn and supplies and we're gonna look right directly back to the pattern and we're just gonna look for how much yarn is gonna be needed. so there's only like three balls
of yarn needed, so it's one in every color. so steel blue, cream and aqua in the bernat maker home dec yarn. so you're going to notice here that what i thought was interesting is that the yarn the designer's asked for and the hook do not compliment each other. so if you look at the yarn ball label the yarn is recommended for a 8 mm size 'l' which is much bigger that this one. so this means to me that the designer has looking for tension and tightness. and i can tell you first hand that's absolutely fantastic
in this particular um, example. the reason for its nice and tight do not want to see that pillow form going through your project. so i can see that this designer has asked us to compress the hook so then you're gonna have tighter stitches to give a better every all look. so i'm pretty happy with that. also looking at the instructions, it's just single crochet and it just says to refer to the diagram that was provided. so the crochet chart that was provided. and the back is just made up of one panel you can see here.
it's just made up of one panel and then we're just going to single crochet ourselves evenly all the way around with three single crochets in the corner. so i'm looking at this, this is not a deal breaker for me. the hook size is a 6 mm, size 'j'. i'm looking at the looking at the crochet chart that's been provided to me. um, it a nice size on the paper so it's not so compressed i can hardly see it. so i think i'm gonna be pretty successful with this pattern. so you have to look up the yarn and supplies and determine the foam insert.
so what does it say for the foam insert. the designer should have provided that. and she does, so it's 18" square for the square pillow form. and i do say the designer is a she because it is a she that designed this pattern for yarnspirations.com. so let's move along to step number three on how to read the graphs. and that's the important point of all. step number three is how to read graphs. so some people argue that these graphs are only written for right handed people.
i can tell you quite honestly that's a false expectation. because even right handers we have to read it backwards when we're doing it every other row. and left handers are the same way. so it's not a big deal um, some people think that's true. so i actually put yarnspirations logo into a graph just like you see here. now there are free programs available on line. on thecrochetcrowd.com there's a link at the top of our, our main menu called graphgans and if you click that
i have several different links. some are paid services. in order to get stuff like this done uh, it's between five to ten, fifteen dollars in order to customize uh any kind of shapes like this. but other one's like this one here, it was completely free through the links that i provided. just because there's many of those and i don't want to favor one over the other i'm not gonna say which one i did this one on but i will say that this one is one of the free ones available on thecrochetcrowd.com.
so you can take any kind of pictures that you would like to do. um, i used to be able to do this in photoshop but the fact is, is that because graphgans are so popular these days there are services available and pretty inexpensive in order to convert one of your ideas into a graph format. but there are other types of formats available to you and i should tell you about that as well. now some of the services provide their graphing in a different format. so they provide you the graph but they also you a actual written, um, instruction list.
and some of instructional lists can be extremely long. for example there would be fifty seven rows of instructions if this was to converted over into line format. so how that one is done is that and there's certain companies that do this is that for example there's fifty-four boxes here. so it'll say, um, in there fifty-four with color (a) single crochet. so then all fifty-four color (a's) are in. the next row up are would be fifty-four with color (a).
the third one up would be fifty-four with color (a). and that's when the story starts changing when you run into the first set of colors. so it would be then instead of fifty-four you count the boxes. so 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10. i wanna count that again 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10. so it would say ten with color (a) and then it will say 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, eight with color (b) and then it would have the remainder of the blue here with color (a) and give you the number. so you can just check it off on the list instead of actually having to count these just like i did.
it has it in the instructions. so even when you're turning your work back and forth the computer is calculating what that is so that your image will always completely line up. if i were to suggest one, that would the easiest way of the two to go instead of having me having to sit here and do it. however, there's usually costs associated getting a chart like that. so you know, once i start the pattern it's a very easy idea in order to be able to follow it. it's always just getting started. i think that's probably the hardest thing. so let's begin to um, what do we need to do, how to read the graph from this point forward.
so let's learn how to read these graphs. so the designer says to start here. even if your left handed or right handed we start here. and he designer in the instructions has given us a clue that in the very first set of instructions it says chain fifty-five and then single crochet second chain from the hook. this um, will, that will be only fifty-four. so you see in here there's only fifty-four boxes between here and here. so as a right handed or a left handed
it doesn't matter. we start here and we work our way across with the instruction. okay, so we just go all the way across and then we stop on the other side and turn our work and then on row two we're just gonna come across and follow the instructions all the way. so do you see what i'm saying that you don't need to be left or right handed you're just following the instructions as you see fit.
okay so you have to turn your work and then go back. so then step number three, you turn your work again and you work on this set of instructions going all the way across. so i can tell you by right now then, step number four on the other side of here is going to start running into these boxes here. so then i'm gonna physically have to count the first sets so 1, there's ten i believe and then there was eight here, so i'm gonna
single crochet the first ten in the steel blue then i'm going to bring up eight of the cream and then steel blue all the way back. so you just have to snake your way up and down these graphs in order to work. even if it's the yarnspirations' logo just like you see here. you will start on the one side and it doesn't matter which side you start on as long as you start on one side. [chuckles] so you start on one side, i could say i'll start here and then i'm gonna work my way across
and then when i come back i'm actually gonna run into the yarnspirations yellow color. so 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 will be that color this white it'll be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, five and then 1, 2 and then the rest is then again then white. so you can just follow it back and forth. so it's coming back and then i just jump it to the next instruction on row number three and go back and you'll see that i'm here. and i just physically count it. i have my gaping spaces and et cetera and i'll be able snake back and forth. so as long as you know how to snake back and forth you're always good.
in step number four we need to break down the graph that we have and create little bobbins bobbins are a little ball miniature ball based on the big ball. so what we have to do is that in this particular design and i'm gonna explain the difference of doing it this way versus other ways here on this particular video is that you need to create these bobbins. how many are you going to need. how big these bobbins be. well sometimes the question is actually you just have to eye that out for yourself. but i'm gonna give you some tips and ideas because we have to figure out how many bobbing that we're going to need and what exactly are bobbins. i think that's one of the biggest questions that we have
when it comes to all this graphghan work. so let's cover what is a bobbin and why do we need it. so here we have the graph again and we are going to look at the bobbin work. how many bobbins are we gonna need and why do you need bobbins. well there's different ways of doing graphghan work and it depends of your application. so the first one that is not done with this particular pillow is one where you add and subtract the yarn in every line that you go or you just kinda bunch it up and let all the tails hand out on the one end. and so then the other side though it appears perfect the back end appears a mess
so this would not be an afghan that you could turn around really kind of safely without this kind of mess being shown. so this is kind of done in a way of carrying yarn back and forth without physically, so you can see that the um, aqua was carried over and then it was carried back and you can see that. and i intentionally just did it in a way that it would always stay on the none side. so that's one of the options. for this particular pillow what can happen though is if you leave these tail ends coming uh, you know just the way the application of use of the pillow you could have these tails uh, start to peek through
certain areas when it's resting against the foam. so this is not how this pillow is done. so with the bobbin format you have it like this. okay, so it's reversible and you're going to notice errors on this particular swatch because i intentionally done that because i wanna show you what not to do later on in this tutorial on changing color techniques in step number five. so but you can see here there is a total of three bobbins. one bobbin was used on one side of the yellow. then there was a blue bobbin and then there's a yellow bobbin on this side.
so what i can do for you is that in here because i new i needed two bobbins here that one was actually the real yarn ball, one was a miniature yarn ball on this side and then there was a blue from the original blue ball there. so when you have multiple changes of colors especially in the areas you will have multiples of, of bobbins hanging out of hanging out of your work at one time in order to achieve the work. and you have to determine, so you got big white areas here. so i would want that right from the ball itself.
versus making little miniature bobbins that will always run out and then i would make like miniature bobbins for like the cream that you see, the cream or the white what ever you want to call it. so this is kind of an idea on to do that. but how do you look at the graph and determine what bobbins you are gonna need. well let me show ya. so let's look at the breakdown of the bobbins. so we look at the wave here and what are you gonna do. so we're gonna just blow up the wave area here
and determine how many bobbins that we're going to need in order to do the wave. now the wave is actually kinda interesting. because the wave consists of three bobbins for aqua. how did i know that? so in actual fact it's really quite easy to tell. so if you've ever thought about fill up a pool. okay, so let's for example let's fill up the pool.
we're starting with the aqua down here. okay, it doesn't start up here yet on this side and you fill up the pool and all of a sudden you get to the top level of the pool. so what's gonna happen is that according to this that the pool will explode and over flow this direction and will over flow this direction. the problem is, is that once that happens and you hit a space like this this yarn of the pool
of water, this side does not share the water on this side. so in actual fact one of the bobbins will continue to go up wether it's this side or this side and it will continue to pool up. but in order to pool up the other side you need another bobbin to carry that color up through the other side. so this would be one bobbin and it will just either pool up on this side or this side or this side. i don't know that until we're gonna get to right to the project. but you can count on that because you can't have one to do all that. also looking at this side here
again the pool of water, it's pooling up here right, but it cannot get over here and this one's gonna start so you're gonna have another bobbin here. and the water is gonna pool up, up, up, until both of them are the same height because you're working in complete rows. so once both of them are complete height just like so. what's gonna happen is that one of these bobbins are going to finish, so one of these is gonna carry up and finish. okay, so then you will not have two bobbins any more it will just be this one or just this one that will carry up
and finish doing all of the remainder right here. so for the blue, if you were looking at this graph for this example, so let's pull up the other graph and let me show you that one. so with the blue, same concept. so look at it like a pool of water. so the blue is filling up to row number three and all of a sudden we hit a block. so the water is gonna overflow in this direction and it's gonna overflow here. so we know that we're going to need a bobbin for the other side of the project.
so when we look at it from this perspective is we have to think about that. and let me see if i can get another graph just to show you. so here we have my other chart done and this chart has the lines across just for illustration purposes. i don't do it like this but i want to demonstrate it like this because i think you'll understand it. based on the pool of water, of filling up the water of the pool we're filling up with steel blue and all of a sudden we hit this cream. so we know that the water has to fill up this area here and all of this.
so then you're gonna need two bobbins in order to complete this bottom level of the pool so of the, of the wave really. so what i try to recommend is that this whole big space here is actually from the yarn ball its self and this is the secondary yarn of a smaller ball in order to finish that area. the beautiful thing about this one here is that this one finishes right here before the blue picks back up over here.
so i don't need all these lots of little balls. i can continue to work with bobbins and continually use them. so you can make a fair size other than this size. you can make a bigger one. sometimes people use the, the inside of the yarn ball and the outside string of the same yarn ball when they have to use two different strands. and basically that saves them from making bobbins. so we can see that when we look up there's easy ways to tell.
but i wanna show you another technique in order that i'll also how i determined this as well. is that you can simply put a piece of paper on the bottom, okay. and you can just simply just follow up the boxes. and all of a sudden you will run int the colors.so you can see that you're gonna run into the cream at some point and so there will be a cream bobbin there and all of a sudden the next row there's cream and there's another aqua.
but what's gonna happen her, look the cream is going in like a pool of water. it's pooled here and it's going in two different direction. so one bobbin i gonna go in this direction and the other bobbin is gonna go in the other. and you keep doing that until you can kinda physically see what's going on. right? so then you can see on this side the white is started here so you'll need another bobbin for that point
this one still continues. so we're gonna continue to going all the way across. so let's test you. i'm gonna show you something and i'm gonna test you to see how many you think you're going to need. okay, the answer's on top of this page but i'm gonna ask you in row number nineteen with the red line. how many bobbins are you going to need? how are used? and you follow that line
going up all the way across. so you're going to have the blue. you're gonna have a steel or sorry cream, aqua, cream, blue, cream, aqua, cream, blue and then cream and then blue. so you can see on this particular round or row which does not happen that often you are gonna need a total of eleven bobbins in order to complete this row. the wonderful thing about this is if you look two rows up you're gonna suddenly get rid of the blue on this side here. so there that's gonna be finishing
and you'll see go one more row and then this blue's finishing and so something especially in this design is always starting and stopping. so i think if anything in this particular pattern what's gonna um, where you're gonna have the most tangled up area is right in the middle section, right here, okay. so just right here. because you gotta a lotta yarn, the colors working at one time.
so one thing that i loved about this particular pattern is that the designer has not over inundated and made all of these colors all over the place and so concentrated in the section here and then once you get to row twenty-nine you're basically just playing with steel blue, creme and cream. and that seems like that makes a lot of sense to me. but let me show you another technique of what the designer's done to save on bobbins. because right here i learned a lesson. right here and here when it gets really thin. let me show you that.
so i noticed something in the designers example because i have the, the sample here that the designer's done and i noticed something. and i noticed that right here, whenever there's two boxes of a different color and the color is the same on both sides they've carried the color underneath underneath the yarn. not behind it but underneath and i'm gonna show you that technique here. so i noticed here all in this tip area the white bobbin here or the cream bobbin
is actually carried underneath so it's going all the way until it hits to this spot here where there's three. and therefore this is a separate bobbin from this. okay, because this white kinda carried up on this side. so that's where we have to pay attention to um, on these kind of concepts. and right here again the same concept. is that when it became two, one and one and one the designer, what she's done is just carried this cream through this area here and so it's just, it's just a way of saving space.
i have to say you can't even notice the difference of it being a separate bobbin versus carrying it through and because of that i think that it will speed you up. especially in this area because you have like 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8. there's eight rows that you do not have to worry about really making a separate bobbin and switching our yarns and making it harder for yourself. you can just carry it through in order to get it done more successfully and i thought that was a pretty cool tip.
so the final tip with these bobbins. okay, so, you don't make enough of them or you don't have enough of them. you know the reality is, is that you're always stopping and starting the yarns anyway so even if you run our of a yarn ball, like a little bobbin mid way through. adding a secondary one is not a big deal. i recommend that you either add it where it's starting. not in the middle of a line uh, like the middle of instructions. so if you run out of cream midway through just subtract out to the beginning and start it there instead. but this is a great way to be able to do it and because it is graphghan work
where you dropping and adding yarn all the time you will not notice if you have switched bobbins at any point in order to do it. so just be generous and just make a few of them for yourself and it's a really great concept. in step number five we going to review the color changing techniques on how to hide your yarn and et cetera. so i've divided it into seven different lessons. one is to know your limits. two is to add a bobbin. three, finish your bobbin.
four is to carry yarn underneath your work. five how to move yarn up in the rows. six is how to carry your yarn back when the boxes are not the same. and seven is how to carry your yarn forward when the boxes are not the same underneath. so those are our lessons so let's begin with knowing your limits with lesson number one. in lesson number one we need to know our limits on what we are actually capable of doing when it come to doing these graphghan kind of work. so you're going to notice here up close, you can see that it's not a seamless line, it's not a perfect line like it would be like it was like a graphic
and et cetra. it's always like a dot matrix printer of the 80s or early 90s. and so you're going to notice here in the graph in a similar kind of way its all done in boxes. but you're going to notice there's a similarity on how these look. so for example you see that the white is kind of protruding a little bit into the wave and then if you follow that across. so it's protruding a little bit into the wave the blue protrudes into the white on the other side. looking up on the next one here is that the blue protrudes over
and then it finishes just perfectly on this side. so you're going to notice this in this particular example. but let me show you a pillow we did earlier this year. the tutorial is also available on this one. this is the block angle pillow. so you're always going to notice that on one side it looks completely perfect and on the other side it always looks like it's jagged in. but i will tell you, you flip this material to the to the other side and all of a sudden this side will look like this
and this side this looks perfect on this side will look like that. okay, so this is one of those capabilities that you will never end up with a line that is perfect like all the way around the shapes. always, one side has to give. and so you will notice it here on this pillow. so when you look at this side here you will notice that on one side here the white is kinda jagging in and on here is like there. so you have to understand what you limits are when it comes to these kind of things.
so if you're looking for picture perfect and all the lines to be all like this you're in the wrong space. because with graphghan work that's not possible. so let's begin preparing so that i can show you how to do all of the color changing techniques. so this particular example plus most of the examples that you will find with this kind of work on line is that the first line never has all the changes. one line is always completely solid. so if you're doing the pillow you're going to chain fifty-five in order to get started and anything and then anything else you're working on you're just going to just chain what it suggests. so if you're doing this in box format and your shape is just
um, sitting on a graph, make sure that you're just adding one for extra because you're gonna have to single crochets second chain from the hook. so you're just gonna continue to do that all the way across, second chain from the hook. so let me, how many counts, chain. [chuckles] let me count how many chains this is. is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12. so i know second chain from the hook i'm gonna get the back loop only and i'm gonna work my way backward over the, over row. and i'm going to have this line be established as completely blue. so because i had the, the first number like i did
i'm just gonna be short one by doing second chain from the hook. so that's why you do no see fifty-five boxes when it comes to the graphghan because the reality is that um, you had to go second chain from the hook leaving you with only fifty-four. so let's carry on and let me start you with how to add a bobbin next. so here's an example of the going dotty hat. we have a tutorial available on this one here. and this is using a technique that is not in this pillow. and what we have here is that we have the going dotty dot here
but do you notice you can see the fluorescent through the yellow? so this is a technique where the yarn is hidden underneath the stitches. so we do this in the graphghan work for a maximum of two boxes only. and it's not a big deal but when you carry such a long way you can physically see these stitches. so if you look inside the dot itself you can see fluorescent yellow is kinda visible there as well. this here is not gonna give you the true look of what this wave is gonna do and look and sometimes this bothers people.
so this is a technique that done but is not highly recommended all the time. so let's show you the technique of adding bobbins. so i'm about to start another row and we're gonna need our bobbins. so when i go to start this one i know i'm gonna but yellow in the middle somewhere and i'm gonna end up with blue. there for i need another blue one for the side here. so this string here is going right to the yarn ball and this is a secondary right in the middle. so i'm gonna start off by chaining one. we're always gonna chain one and then you're gonna single crochet
for the amount of boxes that you need to go all the way across. so in my case i'm just gonna go three. but i'm not gonna finish the third one. so any time you're gonna do a color change you do not finish this stitch. so you yarn over, pull through, like so and then you need to pull the next color. so i have to show you something before we begin to do that. this loop here is the the one that sits over top of the next stitch.
so if this loop is blue and for example let's say that i change the color now. i'm gonna show you why. let's say i change the color now and i pull through the yellow now and then i finish the yellow now what's gonna happen is that the top of the, this stitch has blue and not yellow. so what we have to do is that we have to change this color prior to finishing a stitch. so let's pull this back out and let me finish the third one
and i wanna show you so hopefully that just proves that to you. so we're gonna go in, pull through, do not finish. lean this forward so pull this forward. this is an absolute must, that's not negotiable, don't even argue with me. pull it through forward, okay, and take up your yarn, i don't even know why i said that. take up your other yarn and pull it through and you're just gonna finish it. okay, do not have any slip knots or anything on this yarn. and let the straggler fall in the center
or like in the front with the other blue one there. then go into you next stitch and begin to single crochet. but here's what i would recommend. this is my tip. see how this is hanging out? i would recommend leaning it over top and just crocheting right over top of it. it's the same color as what you're about to use. so you can hide that in effectively. and therefore not have to weave in that in later. okay?
so that's a technique of being able to hide in your yarn tails. so i'm gonna switch back to blue in the next one. so i'm just going to let this fall forward, out of my way and i'm gonna start the next one and pull through and all of a sudden i look at it and say, okay, well, the other blue one was sitting over here i don't have a blue one here. so this is where the other one comes into play. and i want you to pull that yarn strand through,
so just loop it through, finish that stitch, let that yellow come in front with the straggler in front and go to the next stitch and do it, like so. just pull these forward. just see how i just kinda pulled it tight? and i'm gonna go all the way to the end of the line. so by the time you get all the way down here all the yarn strands that you were playing with should be on the front side.
so these are all accessible. so the only difference here now that i've burried that yellow one in there i can safely cut that. and i don't really need to worry about it. okay, you can use a darning needle too if you wanted to hide that. now this blue one, the way that i did it. i did not hide it so i would have to go in and secure that with a slip knot or sorry with a darning needle or what i can just do is do exactly what i just did with the yellow.
put it up over the top and finish it , sorry about that, and just finish this row with that underneath and hide it into position. so that's a technique of not being able to have to worry about so many yarn tails at the end is if you can bury these starting when you go to do this it make a lot of sense to do that, okay. so that would how you would start a bobbin if you would like to do that. and so what's gonna happen now is that the yarn strands the you're playing with. so you got the blue one here,
here, is in the front, this yellow one where we were is now in the front and we're ready then to turn out work. so let's just turn our work quickly and just single crochet ourselves across. okay, and i'm coming into the next one but the problem is, is that the one i want, the next one is yellow. so what i wanna do is pull this one forward and get my new yellow one back up
but here's what i want to show you. when you pull it forward like this, you're gonna finish it and your first stitch in, okay, is going to be into the yellow one, okay, so make sure this yellow one is in the front. but i want you to go around the same strand that you just pulled that you just pulled up. so in the back, do you see how it's a long line going up? if you do not go in behind that what happens
is that it looks like it's out of place. so you wanna go in the stitch but also in behind there just turn it back to the way you were looking at it and just do that as a regular single crochet. so what happens if you don't do it that way. what happens is you end up with a line, see this yellow one here. it looks out of place comparison to the stitches. i did the same with the blue intentionally here and so then you end up with lines that look out of place.
so it's just a way to be able to do that. so now when i turn it around see, you don't see those lines crisscrossing at all. so you can just continue to go back and forth. okay, so the trick really is, is to watch the yarn as it's going up. so the next one is yellow because i see it but i wanna switch to blue in the next one so pulling the yellow forward grabbing the same blue that in behind. same technique, pulling it through to finish.
going into the next blue and just getting behind that string right there and just pulling it through. honestly, once you start doing this that looks inconvenient but it's actually not a big deal at all. so you basically can enjoy that. so this is would be how you start a bobbin and this is kind of an easy way. you see nice clean lines and it's a great way to go.
remember what we said about knowing your limits. so one side looks like it's further over than the other side and that's the same technique of what i showed you with the wave. is that one side is always gonna look like its protruding into the other because that's just the way it is. so this side looks like perfect and this side's a little jagged. and it all depends on which side of the project you're looking at because the other side is completely the opposite. so let's move along in this tutorial and let's how to finish a bobbin. let me show you the technique for that.
so lesson number three we're gonna learn how to finish the bobbin and i'm gonna finish the yellow and i'm gonna finish the blue at the same time. so i'm just gonna chain up one and i'm gonna go in the first stitch and what i want to do is say for example there's nothing more for me to do here for the yellow. it's done, you got the straggler now hanging out of the back. what i would do if i were you is just coming in get that yellow up underneath up over the hook just like that, pull through and what i would do. i haven't even taken it from the yarn ball off. it's still on the yarn ball.
and what i would just do is go under some stitches sorry, just put it under some stitches and its hiding. because it's the same color as the row below you're not even gonna notice its even there. okay, and i'm gonna go until i i'm satisfied with that. so now it's stuck underneath. you can't even see that's it's gonna be finishing. and then all i can just do then is that i can just trim out that yellow now and get that out of the way. so just let me get my scissors out.
okay, so yellow is now out. and the blue, so i have a blue bobbin that's coming over that was on this side that's now coming over to this side. therefore this side of bobbin is redundant, i do not need it so all of a sudden i'm just gonna do the exact same thing of jus burying that strand of bobbins over and i'm gonna eliminate that bobbin out. so really the bobbins have kinda switched sides. so i'm going right to the end. again just burying that right underneath the stitch work.
okay, so it will be hanging out the end of the project just like it is now. and i can just safely just cut that out. and now i'm back to one strand. the bobbins are finished. and you can see that it looks pretty decent. so that would be lesson three of how to finish your bobbin let me show you how to carry yarn underneath your stitches if you have two or one box only to fill. let me show you that next. so in the next lesson i'm gonna show you what happens if you have a particular area of your project where there is not a lot of boxes
and you don't really need to waste and create another bobbin. so right in the tip here when we had when there was two or one box. one or two boxes left and right here we can actually carry this cream underneath the yarn instead of creating two separate bobbins. so let me show you how to do that. so we're about to do that tip of that wave. and so i'm going to do it in the next one so i'm not gonna finish this stitch. bring it forward
get in the habit of doing that. grab your next string and pull it through. so here's what i want you to do technically you would have pulled this forward and left it out of your way for next time. but i do not want you to do the. i want you to keep it up underneath the, the work so that when i when i put in this hook that yarn is still under, it's still there and it's gonna trap it. so let's just do two boxes for the sake of argument.
so i'm going up over the straggler too so that it's gonna get stuck into position so i don't have to worry about that so much. and i want to now bring back my yellow. or sorry, bring back my aqua, and i'm gonna pull that up onto the hook so that i have two of these. and so instead of me having two separate bobbins of this i can just physically just use one. i'm going to pull my stragglers of yellow you're still gonna do that and pull that forward
and i'm just gonna finish. so instead of having two different bobbins for aqua, i only have one and it's being traced up underneath. and i'm gonna show you this again. so i'm gonna turn my work, chain one, one single crochet and i wanna match exactly where the yellow is. and just to prove that point to you so instead of having two bobbins of aqua i'm carrying it underneath. so that's exactly like that going dotty hat was.
so we're just carrying, because it's such a short distance you really can't notice it that, that, that much. so again, we're gonna leave this yellow or aqua down. we're bring the yarn strand that is leading to the bobbin of the yellow to finish. we're leaving the aqua right where it is and we're going right over the top of it for two. remember that we cannot finish that stitch so then we're gonna bring the yellow and bring our aqua back up and finish it with the aqua
just like so and then we carry on with the aqua again. so that's how you would do it if you were to carry yarn underneath like so. depending on your project like, if you have very similar colors you can get away with doing that without it being like that florescent yellow and uh, colors that we worked with. so that would be how you would do that. and because this is only two stitches i would actually take a darning needle and finish this particular item off. let me show you how to do that. so i'm gonna show that right here. is that i would take my darning needle.
so slide the yarn into the darning needle and you just wanna safely just go up underneath. so if you go into the same hole that you're working with you're gonna undo it. so you have to kinda just shimmy this into position without it appearing very obvious. and if you go into your work back and forth three times you will never see where you stopped and started. okay so just be very careful, keep in the same colors
so if you're working with yellow and you're hiding in yellow just make sure you're, you're doing a good job with that. and back one more time. okay, and that would be how i would hide in that yarn. and that's kinda tied into position now and now i can safely cut it back down. right there. so this would be how you would carry yarn um, underneath it instead of actually having a separate bobbin
for both sides of your work. let's move along your next lesson of how to move yarn up in a row. okay, lesson number five. how to carry the yarn up in a row. we kinda already talked about this when we added the bobbins. but we are just going to single crochet ourselves across and we're gonna carry the yarn straight up into the next one. so the next one will be yellow. okay, so just straight up.
okay, so we wanna match. so remember we cannot finish this stitch. we have to pull it forward and we have to grab the yellow. but watch what i have to do. i you grab the yellow and do it wrong. what's gonna happen is you're gonna have a stitch that's out of position. do you see these? okay, see how they're really obvious that it's out of place? i did that on purpose just to show you. okay? so you have to be very careful when you do this,
is that you're gonna pull this yarn forward, you're gonna finish is with the yellow but if i turn it around see how you see that one string is out of position. so when you go across into the or go into the next stitch you also want to jimmy it and just get in behind that string as and pull through. and what that will do is it'll pull that over so that it matches your work. okay, so that's how you would carry it straight up. and now the next one here
i'm going to just carry this one over and the next one i'm gonna do, i'm gonna bring back a bobbin. so i'm gonna finish. i'm gonna do a partial of the yellow, pull it forward and i'm gonna grab a bobbin and bring back the blue on this side because i'm gonna that for the next part of this tutorial. so pull through and let the straggler fall down in front. i let the yellow fall down in front. now because i'm going to be using blue i can just leave that blue underneath
so i don't have to worry about weaving those tails in. make sure that goes a little bit of a distance. i think three is a little short to do that technique. but just that's a concept that you can have. so people ask me all the time. how do you keep these from tangling. honestly you just have to stay well organized with these and to make sure that um, you untangle as you go because you can end up with a real rats nest really easily. so let's just review that one more time. we're gonna chain up one
and single crochet until we hit the yellow and we're gonna carry the yarn straight back up. okay, we cannot finish the one because the next one's gonna be yellow, pull this yarn forward, grab the yarn of the yellow and, and pull through . and again, see that line is gonna be very obvious to you so when you go into the next stitch you go into that stitch but just jimmy it to get behind that other one and that will trap it into position and then finish it. so that's just a great little technique in order to,
to do that. so the next one's gonna be blue. let's pull that one out of the way. pull the blue. same thing with the blue. you'll end up with that line. okay, that's out of place so just going into the next stitch, make sure this one is in, out of your way first. okay so going in then just jimmy it behind that string and then single crochet the rest. so that would be how you would carry yarn up through the rows. the technique is just a make sure that you get that carry yarn
and kinda just kinda hide it into position behind a stitch. like so, i don't know if that's technically, um, i don't know if that's technically in the rules of doing graphghan work but for myself that's how i avoided that because to me that line when it look like that i don't see other peoples projects look like that so i think that's how i figured out how to do it for myself. so let's move a level up. we're gonna do what happens when we need to carry the yarn back when the same color is not underneath. let me show you how to do that. in session number six we're gonna learn how to carry the yarn back when
the color in the boxes are not matching. for example this one here what happens is the yellow is actually starting here. okay so it's starting early before this one here is ready. so if you turn it around and i just turn it around you'll see that it will come straight up but all of a sudden it will start early therefore the yarn is gonna go over here in order to start. so in my particular example, this is a great example. see how this one here the blue started later. okay?
so what happens is you end with this carrying across string and there's a way to be able to go back and forth like this without having these massive strings hanging out of your work in order to do so. so let me show you how to do that. so this is carrying the yarn back when the boxes don't match. so let's carry back three of the blue with this yellow. the yellow is coming up here so technologically it's only ready right for this area. so let's just chain up one
and we're gong to single crochet and i wanna do the, the next the three blue before. so i'm gonna finish this one here. pull this yarn forward. now the yellow is gonna come up all the way back to where you are. and let me show you. i'm gonna finish this with the yellow and you're going to see that carrying across string. okay, do you see it? you're not gonna deny that.
so that's gonna end up being one sided it you don't deal with it right away. so what you have to do is keeping that blue out of the way in front of you. what you have to do is that you have to bury that underneath your work. as you go into the next stitch you're gonna go into that stitch but keeping that string on top of the stitch you're going to single crochet and what's gonna happen is that you don't want any tension on this by the way.
you just want it to be tight but not pulling on it and you wanna single crochet right up over top of that. right to the very one that begin the next one. begins the next yellow. and so therefore the string has just moved over. let me turn this around. so therefore the string has moved from here to here and you barely notice it. okay, does that make sense?
so then i'm gonna finish this row so bring this one forward. bring my next bobbin forward. okay, again the same technique of just going in okay, jimmy around. so did you notice i did not jimmy that when it came over here. you did not need to do that because you're not right over the top of the stitch that you're trying to match. okay and i'm going to single crochet myself to the end. okay , so let's try again for ah, this yellow. so this time i'm going to start the yellow so that it's over
one early. so let's begin to do the blue. so i'm just gonna start the yellow one earlier then right up over top same rule exists. so bring this forward, bring the yellow up and over and again that is going up on an angle that you can see and all you just wanna do is go up underneath the next stitch making sure the yellow stays on top of the hook and then you just single crochet right over top of it.
and therefore, see it hides it into position. so it's a great little technique in order to happen. so for example say i wanted the blue then to be third one over, again i'm going to or third one over. let me not finish that stitch so i can do that. i'm just gonna take the blue one, pull it up, over. okay, again you can see it going on a massive angle on the back
so when i go into the next stitch keep that on top of the row so that you can trap it right under these stitches so that it doesn't appear. so going right into the next stitch, okay, go right into all of them until you get to right above it and then you can finish it. so that would be how you would carry your yarn forward if its not ready for you when you need it. so that's how you would do it in that way.
so therefore you kind of shift back and forth without ever having to change your yarn and you can just hide it underneath. so let's move along to step or sorry, lesson number seven. in lesson number seven we are going to think about what we need to do when the yarn starts later. so last time we had it so that the yellow was starting earlier and so we carried yarn up underneath and so that we were, we were ready to go and so that we could do it right away. this time what's gonna happen is we're not gonna start the next yellow
until we hit to the fourth over in the yellow. so what's happening is that the yellow is here but when we do need it it's over here. so what are we gonna do in order to make that happen. so we're going to chain up one and single crochet into the first one and right when you hit that yellow one, okay so go right into the blue. okay, right when you hit that yellow one
i want you to bring that yellow up like so and just trap it underneath so when you go into the next stitch go up underneath it and so that it's right over top. so you're gonna drag it with you. okay, you got no tension on that thing so it's not gonna be pulling. and on the fourth one which is the next one that's when we wanna bring that yellow back. so let's put the blue in front
and the yellow is going to be ready for the next stitch. so therefore we've just dragged that yellow one over from where it was so in the next one here again, the same thing with the blue is that i've got to think about this ahead of time. i'm just backing out because my blue is right here. so when i go to finish this stitch if i wanna do the same thing with the yellow and drag it over so the blue starts later
i have to make sure that i'm going to leave that blue in underneath that stitch and hide it. so in this case even it's moving over just one i would bury it underneath just like i did and let the um, sorry, i'm gonna let the yellow come in front. this is not as complicated as it looks. it's just a matter of getting your rhythm and being able to do things. so therefor when you turn it around
you can see that you moved the blue for, the blue forward,. you moved the yellow forward and you have virtually no evidence of doing so. so this is how you do the color changing techniques. usually most of the afghans in the end have the idea of, um, being able to, um, just finish off your work with just one solid color across. again the same idea like i talked about in the beginning of finishing bobbins and stuff. you can do the same thing. so the yellow here
is going to be, um, i'm just gonna put it up underneath the stitch. so it will be stuck underneath. and so therefore i can safely get rid of that out. okay, and then i'm about to hit the blue one and i don't need that blue bobbin any more. i'm not gonna drag the yellow into that blue section because then the yellow will appear underneath for the duration and i don't want that. i want a nice clean line. okay, so this is a great way to be able to hide in ends. and hopefully you've learned something in this color changing technique.
and uh again, it take a little bit of practice in order to do so. you can see that my yarn strands are kinda starting to tangle with each other. um, it is what it is. you just gotta stay organized with your yarn. um, i wasn't being that disciplined with untangling it between the takes. and so it just a matter of just working things out. in lesson number six we're going to look at this concept from a really kind of a cool perspective and we're going to look at if from what happens if you make a mistake. so i've been known to make mistakes on these kind of idea. sometimes i accidentally go over by one stitch and i don't notice it right away.
sometimes these kind of things just gotta keep you from, from frogging. so sometimes for example, say i would have accidentally went an extra stitch here. it would not have been a deal breaker. even if i would have made the wave a little more thicker here, it wouldn't have been a deal breaker. what you really want to pay attention to is any kind of fine lines where it starts to look like a sore thumb when you're following thing around. so one of these ideas. sometimes you have to improvise. you're reading the graph wrong.
and all of a sudden you realize that you've added an extra box here. and if you've added an extra box here sometimes it doesn't make sense to right back to the existing pattern. sometimes it just may have to fill in more boxes. i've known to do that and making things a little bit thicker when you notice a error within your work. you have to really think ahead and sometimes you just do what you gotta do and just uh, you know really there is no graphghan police out there. so if you have to improvise you know you just gotta keep looking at your project and people will probably congratulate you even if there's an error and you know it there
chances are nobody else will. so do not get all discouraged when you realize that you're out of one box and you realize it ten rows later because the reality is, is that chances are if you can notice it right away uh, you can probably fix it or you can just improvise and just add more extra boxes or extra to your graph in order for it to make sense. so that's step number six. do not get hung up if you're starting to make a mistake. and finally for step number seven we have the final touches. i would recommend that you
get rid of you're loose ends as you go in your project versus waiting for it. this is not the right example but if you have to get a whole example of this at the end what a nightmare that's gonna be. i'd recommend as you go, it'll be a lot easier for you if you weave in your ends and get rid of it as you go. if you have a design error within your pattern. okay, if you have an error you're going to notice it a lot easier if you're ends are weaved in versus looking at something that may look like that. okay so just take it easy, just take your time. graphghans are a lot of fun and you can follow this example. it's called catch a wave crochet pillow
the graph is available to you. now you know the techniques of changing colors. now you know how to make bobbins and now you can do it. so until next time i'm mikey on behalf of the crochet crowd as well as yarnspirations.com thank you so much for joining me today and until next time have a great day and we'll see you again real soon. that's my magic fingers. [chuckles] we'll see you later. bye, bye. ðÿ‘‹